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BATIK
BATIK is one of Java's
most famous and highly developed art traditions. It is produced upon
cotton or silk, by hand or with a stamp. It's vastly different designs and
colors are symbolic of the numerous producing regions, towns and their
subsequent festivals and religious ceremonies. Batik is made through a
many stage process of hot wax drawing and
dying. The number of colors in a batik piece
represents how many times this process was painstakingly repeated. Numerous dyeing cycles are
reflected in the price of the cloth.
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Batik
Making Process:
1. Designing
The outline of the pattern is blocked out onto the cloth, traditionally with
charcoal or graphite. Traditional batik designs utilize patterns handed down
over the generations.
2. mBatik (waxing)
-Tulis (hand drawn) Once the design is drawn out onto the cloth
it is then ready to be waxed. Wax is applied to the cloth over the areas
of the design that the artisan wishes to remain the original color of the
cloth.
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-ngeCap (stamping) The cap is dipped into melted wax. Just
under the surface of the melted wax is a folded cloth approximately 30
centimeters square. This process is repeated until the entire cloth is
covered. Often cap and canting methods are combined on the same piece of
cloth. On better quality cap fabric great care is taken to match the
pattern exactly.
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3. Dyeing
After the initial wax has been applied, the fabric is
ready for the first dye bath. Traditionally dying was done in earthenware
tubs. When dying process for all colors has done, wax is removed from the
cloth by dipping it in boiling water.
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The number of colors in batik represents how many times it was immersed
in the dye bath and how many times wax had to
be applied and removed.
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IKAT
IKAT is a style of weaving
where the individual threads going across and along the work are dyed in a
predetermined pattern before they are woven. Only with weaving do designs
from the geometric and surreal to figures of people and animals, take
form. These designs are traditional to the region and town.
IKAT TORAJA
A form of Ikat made often with
indigo blue, red and green, black, ochre and brunt orange colors.
They favor rounded geometric patterns with figures included. They make interesting bed
covers are they can be quite large.
For a Torajan, Ikat textiles are high value goods and are a
symbol of prosperity. They will often barter livestock, even their prized
buffalo or agricultural products to obtain high quality Ikat. They play a
central role in the all important funeral ceremonies, are used for
clothing and formal gift exchange.
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SONGKET
A traditional handwoven fabric from Palembang, South Sumatra, Indonesia. Most
Songket have geometric and floral designs that are embellished with gold thread
and are known for a richness and grandeur in that they are
the fabric of royalty. The weaving is supple and tight, the design is
intricate.
While Songket was worn
by courtesans and members of the nobility in the past, today it is used
mainly for ceremony, grand occasions and festive wear.
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ULOS
ULOS is the
traditional handmade fabric of the Batak people
in North Sumatra, Indonesia that dates back to their earliest history circa 1200.
It is unique in that over the mostly black colored woven
base, the designs are embroidered onto the fabric. The
stitching can be so fine that sewn on treads pierce only the tight
gaps in the base weave, creating a very straight and orderly line
and geometric pattern.
It
is a fabric celebrating the relationships between people of the community,
most notably for births, weddings and funerals. It forms part of a
family's assets, brought out and worn or displayed during ceremonies. It
is used as a dowry item and often exchanged during
ceremonies.
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